Acne Studios Fall RTW’24 – Rugged and oily memories

In the Acne Fall RTW ’24 collection, Jonny Johansson tells the story of material memories and the clash of two worlds that create Acne as we know it.

Denim and leather creates the source of the studio, sticking to it Acne took its origins further creating leather looks with denim cuts. Trucker cut jackets fully embellished from rugged leather looking effects to create an uncanny feel which combines both signature looks in a very authentic way. Heavily inspired from Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo’s works called, Chairs in Rubber. Upcycled from used tires to create sinister looking massive size thrones, the textures from the art-piece were a bible for the creation of the collection. This inspiration carried on from the clothes to the runway itself, where we could see miniature versions of these seats as guests took their places on them.

Back on the denim, rusty, oily and metallic surfaces were applied by spray or soaking the material. This process resulted in a mechanic, overworked texture while maintaining its luxury look, clashing the two worlds as if they were one. Apart from the jacket we see the material being used on long overcoats and strapless dresses. 

Leather was the main star of the show even echoing on other materials, but when it comes to Acne, presentation of slow processes is just as crucial as the pieces. Zippered one-piece suits, pre-molded dresses to fit exactly as intended and colored printed dresses featuring a sculpture of renaissance cherub took over the stage. 

Sticking to the house’s northerner roots, heavy knits and Icelandic shearling and faux-fur were shown in an elevated manner. Knits featuring flawless technique were presented as the main colors of the fall season, shades of warm brown.