Dior Spring Summer 2019 show was held in 1200 m2 showspace at the Paris Longchamp Racecourse. « Freedom » is the keyword that Maria Grazia Chiuri signifies in all her designs since the very beginning. This time, she describes the freedom with dance which is choreographed by Sharon Eyal. Dance and fashion meets on runway by their common point : the body and its way of expression of freedom. Dance of lights highlighted with white rose petals enlightened audience’s eyes during the show. Jersey has been included as part of this collection. Celebrated powerful female choreographers Isadora Duncan and Martha Graham were memorized by a reference of max length, black jersey dress and Grecian inspired draped dresses. Chiuri kept lightness, ease and elegance together on her dresses. As a from of the heritage of Dior, and today’s trend tie-dye was mixed and used on loose skirts and styled with masculine jackets and suede Dior belts. The result is a real mix of romantic femininity and sharp masculin effortlessness. Dior tailoring signed up for perfection one more time !
« La Riviera » collection was a fascination of Italian coast during summer the designer mentions… The dresses mostly all with their fringy endings were dancing on models legs while walking. Bold summer colors accompanied pastel white and other calm shades imaginably to make a woman look great on bronzed skin. Big raffia totes reminded of sand, beach, warm weather and beach bags. To fit in almost « anything » !
Anthony Vaccarello, the new creative director of Saint Laurent, preferred to face the Eiffel Tower to exhibite his new Spring Summer 2019 collection. There was a lot of black in any kind of fabrics ; leather, chiffon, velvet… Stars embroidered jacket with leopard scarf was an inspiration of Texas, when you slide down you see a bit of Kate Moss rebellium and gold open toe heels may remind you LA downtown or Pretty Woman movie. Union of different styles, powerful shortcuts of playsuits and such. Here, we see tremendous effect of female power which brand referred with since Le Smoking silhouette back in 60’s designed by Yves Saint Laurent.
Creating the rules and breaking them. Loving your identity no matter what. Uniqueness. Self love. Definition of beauty. Ambassadors of intersex act had a word to say over this collection. Hanne Gaby Odiele, just one of the defenders of her own pronouns wanted to speak out and be brave about her identity. John Galliano touch on the collection was impossible to fall off the radar. He switched the society normed core uniforms of men and women. Each gender lived through one other’s put-on silhouettes on the runway. Strong sensilibity played a big in use of ensembled bold and pastel colors. This season, the Margiela effect « to never be normal » and extreme, was successfully staged again in Paris.
If a fashion house’s creative designer has been named as one of the 100 most influential people in the world in 2018 by Time Magazine, we gotta stop and look at what is inside the collection. There, on the runway, all the 2018’s phenomenal super models walking to form Virgil Abloh’s designs in the best version on itselfs : Kaia Gerber, Bella Hadid, Karlie Kloss and all others were in all white. The American classic sports brand. Many industrial-futuristic hip-hop age adapting pieces are there to be discovered surprisingly also as sensitive feminine chic.