It is known that the word sensibility that has inspired and guided the designer throughout his career, perhaps most notably in the controversial SS93 grunge collection for Perry Ellis that put him on the map and yet got him fired… Inspired by what he saw on the street, the designer took a $2 thrifted shirt and had it remade in $300-a-yard silk, before hitting up Marc Jacobs to make Duchesse satin sneakers…
It was all exciting when Jacobs took to new levels and introduced Marc by Marc Jacobs for SS01. At the time, he was setting trends both at his own label and Louis Vuitton re-creating ‘monogram moment’ and all… where he went on to introduce ready-to-wear in 1997. With a debut collection featuring girlish rainbow glitter belts and plastic cherry hair ties alongside military-esque button downs, smartly tailored blazers, and denim mini skirts, the new, lower-priced MBMJ elevated the ordinary, putting youthful fun and irreverence firmly on the NYFW runway.
Now, four years after the beloved line was discontinued, the designer today launched The March Jacobs Evoking the high of discovering some hidden treasure at a vintage store (at a more purse-friendly price than the designer’s runway collection), the line introduces “M-Archives” – the return of classic pieces drawn from Jacobs’ archive; “Trade-Marc”, a delicious smattering of specialty items including everything from stickers, iron-on patches, and key rings, to socks, caps, and baseball jerseys; and a series of collaborative collections created with friends includingStephen Jones, Juergen Teller, Sofia Cappola, graphic artist Milton Glaser, Peanuts, and brands like Liberty and Schott.
And you get all the deets…The story for each item is written out on the tag, letting the wearer in on the history.for now. It’s an extension of a conversation the designer and director have been having for years.
But while a treasure trove of archive pictures from his career (in a Louis Vuitton cap, or snuggling in bed with Sofia) are only a few taps away, Jacobs is not just about nostalgia. Though the grunge collection and classic pieces from his LV days like the Stephen Sprouse graffiti from 2001, or those Murakami monograms, debuted for SS03 – have come full circle, the designer avoids slipping into the quicksand of a #TBT and being swallowed whole by the glories of the past. Instead, he smartly investigates history and pays it forward to where we are now creating something new and altogether different for 2019. THE Marc Jacobs is proof of that.
A long waited awakening, welcome home The Marc Jacobs… it has been awhile